Peru Part 7: Senor de los Milagros

By Catie Talarski

Diane was on Where We Live for a few minutes this morning, giving a rundown of our travels in Peru and playing some audio from a few of the interviews we’ve done.

A few updates – Hiram Bingham’s grandson wrote a letter to Yale Daily News agreeing with the alumni in Peru, who wrote the University requesting the artifacts be returned:

I would add that my hope is for a better future: archaeological and research collaboration between Peru and Yale beyond Machu Picchu, youth education, promotion of cultural history and awareness, with Yale partnering with Peruvian scholars and students

Yale Daily News reports that the recent letter from Yale Alumni in Peru will not change the University’s legal strategy:

University General Counsel Dorothy Robinson said Yale has long sought a cooperative resolution to the dispute — something she said the letter-writers may not fully appreciate.

In other news, today is our last day in this lovely country.  This date also marks the Procession of the Lord of the Miracles.  I covered this procession in Hartford two years go (check out the audio slideshow).  It was quite moving to be here in Lima for what is one of the biggest processions and celebrations in South America.

The origins of the Lord of Miracles date back to the mid 17th century. An Angolan slave painted a black Christ on a wall near Lima.  The image sustained through attempts by the hierarchy to destroy it, and a massive earthquake that demolished surrounding buildings but left the wall standing.  During the whole month of October, observations take place to honor the patron saint, whose color is purple.  The main event takes place on the 18th – a procession in which hundreds of thousands of Peruvians dress in purple and sing and pray while accompanying the patron’s image for a 24 hour trek.  The wooden platform that carries the image is completely covered with silver and gold, and weights more than a ton. It is carried on the shoulders of the “Pachacamilla Christ Brotherhood”.

 

Thousands gathered at La Plaza de Armas in Lima - we couldn't get too close to the actual procession

Government officials and others sat on balconies and roofs to watch, and confetti marked the occasion

Many men, women and children dressed in purple robes

Peru Part 6: Orchids and Hummingbirds

By Catie Talarski

Today I experienced my first thunder and lightening storm in Peru.  The rain comes quick in the mountains, and the rolling thunder and lightening in Cusco was exciting. Also exciting: a race car convention in the center square.  Best logo ever:

Diane has been doing a series of interviews since we arrived in the country – some on and some off the record.  The Yale/Peru artifact dispute is a controversial issue here – we’ve heard from cab drivers, artists, government officials, business owners, tour guides… most of whom think the artifacts should be returned and some form of an agreement made between the two parties.  Today we talked to an historian at the local Museo Inka who says her great grandfather owned the property that included Machu Picchu when Hiram Bingham “re-discovered” it.  Bingham, in his writings, mentions several families that were actually living on the ruins when he arrived.  She told us these families worked for her great grandfather, and were tending the land.  Another interesting angle in the already complicated story.

Now to the orchids and hummingbirds!  The Manchu Picchu Pueblo Hotel is in Aguas Calientes –  a sprawl of wilderness preservation and eco-luxury that is pricey, even by American standards. (The brochure mentions a few folks who have checked in: Cameron Diaz, Demi Moore, Heidi Klum…. you get the idea.)  When we head back to Lima, Diane will be interviewing the owner of the Inkaterra hotel chains (who has been very involved with the artifact repatriation.)  Although we didn’t spend the night in one of their bungalows (we spent the night at Gringo Bills – FYI) we were given a wonderful tour of the grounds, the Orchid garden, and more hummingbirds in one place than I have ever seen in my life.  I had to post a few photos…

loving, humming, colorful birds

Peru Part 5: Machu Picchu

By Catie Talarski

Hiram Bingham described his first impressions of Machu Picchu:

A jungle-covered maze of small and large walls, the ruins of buildings made of blocks of white granite, most carefully cut and beautifully fitted together without cement.  Surprise followed surprise until there came the realization that we were in the midst of as wonderful ruins as any ever found in Peru.

Bingham’s name is all over the small village of Aguas Caliente, where you make the ascent to the ancient ruins. On street signs, sprawled on trains and engraved in plaques…  a Connecticut connection to this place that, in so many ways, couldn’t be further away.

It’s been an exciting couple of days.  A train ride into Aguas Calientes, a bus ride to Machu Picchu, wandering around mysterious ancient ruins… We had little internet access and I got sick with a stomach bug.  Feeling better now, and stationed in Cusco for the next few days.

Peru Part 4: Ollantaytambo

By Catie Talarski

Yale Daily News has reported that a group of Yale alumni in Peru have written a letter to the University President asking that Yale return Peruvian artifacts excavated by Hiram Bingham that have been housed at Yale for the last century:

Their concern is not about whether Yale’s legal arguments are logically defensible or not; their concern is about Yale’s rising above such conflict, putting legal distinctions aside, showing a willingness to accommodate the enormous importance of these objects to Peru, and lifting a barrier to future cooperation between Yale and Peru, so that both can work hand in hand to contribute to a greater understanding of an ancient culture and its preservation today.

Diane will be covering this, so stay tuned to WNPR.

Right now we’re exploring Ollantaytambo, a small village nestled in the Andes.  This is one of the places that Hiram Bingham set up camp while doing excavations.  It has some breathtaking ruins and incredible stonework, as you’ll see below, and is one of the main starting points for the Inca Trail.  Amazingly, the village has been continuously inhabited since the 13th century.

View from hotel

I

Incan's precision stone work

Incan ruins and archeology site

Used as a temple and a fortress

Peru Part 3: Admirals, Octopus and Art

By Catie Talarski

Admiral Miguel Grau

Today is a national holiday here  - Battle of Angamos Day.  According to my sources:

The Naval Battle of Angamos (Combate naval de Angamos) was fought on October 8, 1879, during the naval stage of the War of the Pacific (Guerra del Pacifico). The Chilean Navy, commanded by Captain Galvarino Riveros and Captain Juan Jose Latorre surrounded and captured the ironclad Huascar, commanded by Rear Admiral Miguel Grau Seminario, who died in combat. After the battle, the crippled Peruvian Navy was unable to prevent the invasion of its territory. The Huascar was repaired and served under the Chilean flag until its decommission, and now sits as a floating museum in the port of Talcahuano.

The holiday commemorates Admiral Grau, “the Gentleman of the Seas“.

Today was also our last day in Lima for the next week – tomorrow we head to the mountains.

The hotel closet serves as a fabulous make-shift studio for Diane to voice her NPR spot

Playing football on the Pacific (not a shabby view)

A civilized dinner of octopus salad, asparagus and fish over mashed lima beans, and Argentinian wine

Parque del Amor is full of lovers and Gaudi-esque mosaics

We managed to meet up with indigenous artist Brus Rubio. And interview him.

Peru Part 2: A Nobel Prize

By Catie Talarski

Mario Vargas Llosa, Photo: Ulla Montan/Norstedts

Lots of excitement today with the news that Peruvian Mario Vargas Llosa won the Nobel Prize for Literature.  Diane and I had already planned to head to the center of Lima to meet with some government officials – but after hearing the news we decided to get there early and gather reactions from folks around the Plaza de Armas.  Peruvian poet Antonio Cisneros was in town celebrating his nomination for the Garcia Lorca Prize, and we were able to snag him for a short interview on fellow writer Llosa.

Right now the sun has shown its face (a rarity in this city) and the sounds of men hammering from a nearby construction site fill our hotel room as Diane works on a news spot that will air tonight on All Things Considered.  Stay tuned.

Lima's Plaza de Armas, the center of the 16th century settlement established by Francisco Pizarro. Although a stunning plaza, none of the original buildings still exist. The oldest feature is the bronze fountain, built in 1650.

Diane interviewing folks at the Plaza de Armas

Poet Antonio Cisneros

 

Peru Part 1: Lima

by Catie Talarski

Despite the slight inconvenience of a flight delay, 15 hours of travel, and being forced to endure two back-to-back showings of “Letters to Juliet“, Diane and I made it safely to Lima.  Thus far: a wonderful albeit cloudy city.  Here’s a taste:

Painting by Indigenous artist Brus Rubio

 

Photos of actual Peruvian meals coming soon. (planning meeting)

Mannequins depicting pre-Incan civilization "Lima Culture" - Museum Huaca Pucllana

Ongoing archeological dig in Lima - Pucllana ceremonial center (photo from top of pyramid) built between 200-700AD

obligatory llama (of the urban variety)

Dispatches from Peru

By Catie Talarski

Just a note that for the next two weeks the production of Where We Live will be left in the wonderful and capable hands of Josie Holtzman.   I’ll be accompanying WNPR’s Diane Orson on a reporting trip to Peru.   Diane has been covering the artifact dispute between Yale University and Peru for years, and has recently been awarded a grant to travel to the country for a series of interviews.  I’ll be serving as Diane’s production assistant and photographer, and will hopefully be doing some reporting myself.  Stay tuned for live updates on Where We Live, and keep checking the blog for photos and updates of our journey.

Hasta luego!